Gyaru/History

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History of Gyaru Style

A 'Campaign Gal' from the June 27, 1986 issue of GORO Magazine.

1970s - 1980s

The word 'Gyaru' is adopted from the English word 'gal' or 'girl'. The word gained popularity during the late 1970s and into the 1980s, for phrases such as 'Campaign Girl' for models and gravure shoots.

The connotations of the word 'gal' shifted with the release of the manga 'Sweet Spot' by Yutsuko Chuusonji in 1989, popularising the term 'Oyaji Gyaru' (オヤジギャル; Old-man Girl).

1990s

A group of Teamers (Late 1980s - early 1990s)

• Two Kogals (1994)
• A group of Kogals (1996)

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A Loco girl on the cover of the August 1994 issue of FINE Magazine

• Two Ganguro (1998)
• Three Ganguro from Ganguro 3 Kyoudai in the 38th issue of egg (1999)

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In 1991-1992, Teamers rose in popularity around the Shibuya area. Teamers (チーマー) were groups of anti-social, delinquent teenagers who would hang around at night in Shibuya. They were often associated with Yankees, but usually took inspiration from American gangs and popular fashion. The Teamers helped to build the 'ShibuKaji' (渋カジ; Shibuya Casual) style, paving the way for the counter-culture styles of Kogal in the following years.

The Kogal appeared in Shibuya around 1993, and the Teamers became more obscure. Popular elements of the early Kogal look included tanned skin, bleached hair, loose socks and enjoying partying. The Kogal became the first widely known style of what would later be known as 'Gyaru'. This style would continue to develop into 1996, reaching its peak with the solo debut of singer Namie Amuro.

The term 'Amuraa' (アムラー; aka Amurer) was coined to describe young girls who were inspired by Amuro's clothing style; this style would help to develop the Kogal style further. The Amurer was distinguishable through their high spirits, party lifestyle, and enjoyment of pagers and photobooths; their style also focused on light brown hair, Burberry and plaid print, mini skirts as well as platform boots. In March of 1996, Cawaii! Magazine launched, familiarizing the public with street photography and teen fashion magazines.

From around 1994 until 1998, there was a 'Loco Girl' (ロコガール; Local girl) boom. Loco girl, coming from the English word 'local', was a term used to describe young women who were born and raised in Hawaii, often described as free-spirited and loving of nature. It was from this trend that hibiscus flowers, tanned skin and beach clothing became popular, while incorporating elements from the Amuro Kogal style too.

In 1998, the term 'Ganguro' appeared, and the popular style emerged from high-school girls in Shibuya. The style continued to gain popularity throughout the year, and became a staple of the Shibuya scene by 1999. The Ganguro could be seen with heavy tans, bleached hair and large platform boots. It was in 1995 that the largely popular magazine egg would start up, however it would not become targeted towards girls and young women until around 1999.

The year of 1999 would prove to be a large year for gyaru culture, cementing it as the year of the birth of egg as a gal magazine, as well as Yamanba Gyaru emerging from the original Ganguro style. egg Magazine would heavily feature teenage models who had been scouted off of the streets in Shibuya who had helped create the trends first hand, so the style would rapidly evolve during these years with each issue released.

2000s

Buriteri on the cover of egg's 45th issue (2000)

Ageha Magazine models at the 'DOT' opening (2009)

The 2000s would continue to see a rise in the popularity of gyaru culture, raised by the new found fame of Buriteri after her March 2000 feature on the cover of egg. The style of Yamanba was first introduced in September 1998, however, it did not grow in popularity until the very early 2000s. The style is said to originate from the Japanese folklore of 'Yama-uba', which would explain the trend of white, bleached hair amongst Yamanba gyaru, whereas Ganguro had blond or colorful hair.

The Ganguro style continued to develop into the early 2000s, with the style losing traction around 2005/2006. In 2004, Kaoru Watanabe would appear on the cover of egg Magazine in Manba, with a special edition 'Manba egg' being released in the same year; 2004 would mark the large Manba boom throughout Japan, solidifying its development from the Yamanba style of the previous years. Kaoru Watanabe would again experiment with various styles, creating Haady in late 2005, which would pick up in popularity in 2007.

2006 would see the start of Ageha Magazine, which would push the Agejo style into the public eye, with the magazine becoming a monthly publication in October 2006. The glamorous style of Agejo would become one of the staple styles of Gyaru during this time, and many young women took elements from the gyaru style and carried it into their daily looks. The popularity of Agejo would continue into the late 2000s, with Hime Gyaru taking off around 2007. The Hime style was seen in publications such as Popteen Magazine, which featured Gyaru styles throughout the 2000s.

2010s

A Gyaru in Harajuku (2011)

New egg models (2019)

2010-2012 continued to be steady years for Gyaru culture, with major magazine publications reaching their all-time peak, as well as many established models starting up their own clothing brands and companies. While the style was still popular amongst existing gyaru, many of the general public and young women turned away from the extravagant gyaru style in favour for more toned-down looks. It was around this time that pastel pinks, browns and earthy tones became popular with women; this era of fashion often has a Roma Gyaru element to it.

The Roma Gyaru fashion would be seen until around 2013, with many gyaru styles dying into obscurity around this time. Many magazines would struggle to find their identity during this time, trying to fit into the current trends amongst teenagers, deviating from the gyaru style. In 2014, three staples of gyaru culture, egg, Ageha and Happie Nuts would all cease publication, cementing the decline in popularity of gyaru. Gyaru of the mid-2010s adapted to current trends, ditching the dark tan and heavy eye makeup, instead having dark hair and lighter skin. What would later become known as the Shiro Gyaru would develop from this era, taking elements of popular trends and giving it a gyaru twist.

The later half of the 2010s would fare better for gyaru culture, seeing the rise of the Shiro gyaru, along with the return of egg and Ageha magazine. The 'new egg' models promoted the Shiro gyaru style, keeping the bleached blond hair, long nails and interest in fashion, while keeping in style with modern trends and popular crafts.